What’s wrong with Moroccan food?

Is it limited by the traditions of the past or has it lost touch with its roots?

Check out Julia Moskin’s article in yesterday’s Times for a discussion of Morocco’s cuisine and how two cooks (young chef, Mourad Lahlou and esteemed cookbook author, Paula Wolfert) have come to understand its evolution in contrasting ways. Moskin touches on issues I began exploring in my post on Chef Ramzi’s efforts to record the rich Lebanese culinary heritage. Don’t miss the recipe for beghrirs, or Moroccan pancakes, which like their similarly holey English cousins crumpets, beautifully soak up a pat of butter and a spoonful of honey! Lahlou and Wolfert would surely agree that these pancakes represent the best in Moroccan home cooking.

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